|Jose’ Marti Airport in Cuba|
|View of Mt. Rainier National Park from Paradise Inn|
|Wildflowers on the moutain|
|Dining Room in Paradise Inn|
|Paved trails in Mr. Rainier Park|
|River emerging from cave in Misqually Glacier Remains|
|Mt. Rainier finally peaks out|
|One of the many tugboats at the Harbor Day Festival in Olympia, Washington|
|Skip Suttmeir, owner of Galene with his wife, Marty|
|Tugboat owners enjoying a tailboat party|
|Steering wheel of the Sandman|
|Approach to Torres del Paine|
|Two Guanacos in Patagonia|
|Rheas in Patagonia|
|Modern Day Gauchos in Patagonia|
|Dwight D. Eisenhower’s Birthplace|
|Room where Eisenhower was born|
Denison, Texas began as a company town built by the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad (called the KATY), the first railroad into Texas. At its height, half of Denison worked for the KATY, including David Eisenhower from 1889-1892. In a small white clapboard house across the road from a railroad tract, the family’s third son, Dwight D. Eisenhower, was born in 1890. President Eisenhower’s birth details may have been lost since all births were at home and Denison had no hospital. As late as his application to West Point, Dwight thought he was born in Tyler. However, Principal Jennie Jackson remembered the Eisenhower family and contacted him when he became famous.
|Statue of Eisenhower by Robert Dean|
Then General Eisenhower visited his birthplace in 1948, just after the home was purchased by Denison to be preserved. It is now a State Historic Site that offers a short tour of the house (he only lived there 18 months). A bronze life size statue of General Eisenhower stands on the grounds with him dressed in his personally designed short Eisenhower jacket. Oklahoma artist Robert Dean created five statues of the president and Denison was lucky to get one of them. The statue was dedicated on the 50th anniversary of D-Day in Normandy, France. Eisenhower Birthplace
|Kaboodles Store in Denison|
A surprising number of art galleries and antique stores line Main Street with a proposed Studebaker Museum in the works. My favorite store was Kaboodles, opened two years ago by Cindy Dickson. The store includes creative and unique repurposed items by local artists and even carries leather purses made by Brad Berrentine, a resident of Pattonville. Kaboodles Facebook Page
|Swimming Beach at Eisenhower State Park|
Continuing to capitalize on the brief Eisenhower connection, the city boasts of nearby Eisenhower State Park on Lake Texoma. This is a large park with many camping spots, screened in cabins and some serious marinas, including the Eisenhower Yacht Club. An employee acknowledged there is no club nor club house and the name is just a fancy way to describe the marina. Pontoon boats are available for hire and we particularly liked the small swimming beach. We were sorry not to have brought swim suits to enjoy the clear, cool waters.
Eisenhower State Park
Compass Rose Website
|Quantas Airlines approaching Auckland, New Zealand|
The travel day had already been long – early morning wake-up call, two hour drive to the airport, parking, check-in, security review, first flight out, lost in a new airport, and now, finally, the second and last flight from Mexico City to Oaxaca. American Airlines brought us to Mexico City and bankrupt Mexicana was to carry us to our destination. I walked into its clean, new airplane and immediately relaxed as classical music played overhead and wondered why other airlines didn=t use Mozart to calm passengers. But then all international airlines have their own personalities.
|Sky Airlines lunch on flight to Puerto Montt|
In using international airlines, it’s been a surprise to be served meals and local products, even on short flights. On an hour and a half flight from Hong Kong to Hanoi, we were given a hot lunch on Vietnam Airlines. An even shorter flight from Santiago to Puerto Montt, Chile was enough to be offered cold cuts on Sky Airways, a start-up Chilean airline. On a 50 minute puddle jumper with Tunisair from Tunis, Tunisia, to Palermo, Italy, a sole attendant was able to distribute sweet snacks and hard candy. With its mostly male attendants, Quantas Airlines made available Australian wine and beer as well as Australian movies such as “There’s nothing I’d rather be than an Aborigine.” Swiss Air served the best milk chocolate candy ever and Dutch KLM promoted its dairy products, including Gouda and Edom cheese.
|Showing of Mountain Film Festival in Puerta Natales, Chile|
Since 1946, film festivals have been held all over the world – from Cannes to Venice to Toronto to Sundance with emphasis on first time releases, ethnic origins, genres, independent film producers or even documentaries or shorts. I’ve seen promotions of festivals from Antalya, Turkey to Ft. Worth, Texas as communities work to attract visitors. But my cousin takes his Mountain Film Festival on the road to where viewers are most likely to be.
Patrick Moore grew up in Lubbock, graduated with a fine arts degree from Texas Tech, and became a serious world traveler thanks to a job maintaining satellite dishes at U.S. Embassies around the globe. Even with extra pages, his passport never lasted long and was replaced often. Wherever he went, Patrick hiked and explored and kept up with climbing feats around the world. On a whim in New Zealand several years ago, he called Sir Edmund Hillary of Mt. Everest fame. Sir Hillary invited him to his home and Patrick spent the afternoon with the family, learning more about the famous climber’s life.
Patrick married a beautiful Chilean American Airline attendant and settled in Santiago to raise his family. He found the outdoor opportunities in South America unparalleled and he and his family often hiked, biked, climbed and camped. In his backyard is a climbing wall and a shed full of outdoor equipment. Even before the embassy job played out, Patrick explored bringing a film festival to the far south that played to his interests – mountain climbing and extreme sports. He found two.
|Poster promoting Mountain Film Festival|
The Banff Film festival licenses 25 films to be available to hosts like Patrick who select those they wish to show at their own locations. He also picks up the four climbing films offered each year by The Reel Rock Film Tour. This year featured a harrowing rock climb by individuals who had missing limbs but no lack of courage as well as the Stonemasters, a 1960s group of self-taught rock climbers who ruled El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. What distinguishes Patrick’s two to three day festivals are his speakers and workshops on mountain climbing that accompany the films.
The Mountain Film Festival is shown in 13 South American locations in Chile, Argentina, Brazil and Peru – just about anywhere young climbing enthusiasts congregate. Backpackers love it when the festival arrives in town or even on the slope. Entertainment is hard to come by in most outback areas. His most challenging location is at Aconcagua, highest mountain in North and South America at 22,000 feet. In February of this year, Patrick carried his High Definition projector while others packed in a 22 foot inflatable screen. It took two days of hiking to arrive at the second base camp of the mountain. There at 14,000 feet, the movies were shown on the screen under the stars to 200 grateful and amazed campers.
After years of following Facebook posts on Patrick’s festivals, I had the opportunity to experience a showing in Puerta Natales, Chile, a town of 20,000 where many launch into Patagonia. While North Face is his primary sponsor, Patrick finds local companies to help with overhead costs and to promote the showings. In Puerta Natales, Erratic Rock, a local hostel/outfitting company, provided assistance with the location and set-up. Posters of the festival had been hung around town and the local newspaper covered the upcoming event.
We arrived on a rainy night at a large, metal hanger for a showing of “Towers of Temptation”, a film on the first ascent of the central towers of Torres del Paine in Patagonia 51 years ago. At the premier showing in Santiago, Patrick had even brought in the film’s director, Leo Dickerson, to speak. Inside, indirect lighting illuminated walls of powerful photographs of climbers and the towers. Outdoor equipment such as kayaks, mountain bicycles, and tents were displayed. Young travelers from around the world milled about – visiting, comparing, sharing stories. Some even carried their backpacks as if they had just arrived in town. Hot cider was served. By the time of the showing of the first film, the 200 chairs had filled and all settled in for an evening of entertainment far from home.
The Mountain Film Festival shows continue throughout the year, even in the coldest days of winter in southern Patagonia. In my last e-mail from Patrick, he wrote enthusiastically of the next showing in Coyhaique, Chile where a Mt. Everest climber and an Antarctica Explorer will be giving lectures along with the films. His timing is good. Travels to Patagonia and other parts of South America are up. And, there’s nothing more exciting than a good mountain climbing story, especially if the mountain is just outside the window.
|Potters Brown, Edom, Texas|
|Ken Carpenter Jewelry, Edom, Texas|
|Selections at Potters Brown|
I love small towns that use the arts to survive and Edom and Ben Wheeler are two such communities, closely connected and near Athens and Tyler. Edom owes its survival to Doug Brown, owner of Potters Brown. Potters Brown Freshly trained as a potter, Doug arrived in Edom in 1971, looking for a quiet place to live and work. His uniquely painted and glazed pieces attracted shoppers from the DFW Metroplex which brought in more artisans which attracted more shoppers. Forty three years later, his store still anchors the “arts district” of Edom, population 375.
|Doug Brown of Potters Brown|
Doug was hard to miss in his pink overalls, t-shirt and headband as he offered to show off his kiln in back where he was firing that day. In what was once a feed store, the works of Doug and his wife, Beth, support reds and purples, colors that are hard to achieve in the glazing world, as well as more traditional browns and blues. Doug was proud that Edom had managed to promote the arts without changing the character of the small town. “Not much” was his reply to the question of what had changed since he established residency there, failing to note the one-third increase in population since 2000.
Next door is Ken Carpenter’s Jewelry, which recently celebrated 25 years in “downtown” Edom. Originally in the restaurant construction business, Ken opened his store in 1990. Lapis, green turquoise, and larimar are just some of the stones used in his strong pieces. Like other artists of Edom, Ken supplements his income with appearances at art fairs around the state. Ken Carpenter Jewelry
Edom supports six other stores and studios. Easily 10% of the population is involved in the arts. If Paris had the same ratio, we would have 2500 artists. Imagine what an art center we would be.
The most prominent building in town is The Shed Café, proudly displaying a banner noting its being designated Best Café in East Texas by Texas Monthly. It was still full as we entered at 2 o’clock with many locals and visitors enjoying basic Texas fare such as chicken fried steak, meatloaf, steak, hamburgers.
We happened to hit the Second Saturday Art Jam event along the 279 Artisans Trail – named for the highway connecting Ben Wheeler and Edom. This includes 11 artist shops, several restaurants, produce stands, garden centers and music venues. After a short, pleasant drive, we arrived in the revived town of Ben Wheeler, the result of an experiment by two residents with a vision. Here’s the description of the foundation contained in the Ben Wheeler website – “Ben Wheeler Arts & Historic District Foundation, a non-profit 501 (c) (3) corporation, was created by Brooks and Rese Gremmels to serve as the vehicle for reconstructing, not only the physical aspects of Ben Wheeler, Texas but perhaps, more importantly, returning a sense of community to the town by providing it with various outlets through music, art, history, education, entrepreneurship, basic civil service and philanthropy.”
The Foundation has been a kind of privately funded Main Street project with old buildings being renovated and filled with galleries and restaurants. One dollar rent was offered to entice new shopkeepers. The Harrison Knife Making school brings in students from around the country while Blue Moose Decoys can be purchased next door and hats across the street. An old schoolhouse was moved in to house the local children’s library along with a wedding chapel. Two music venues advertised live concerts the night of our visit.
And there’s much promotion of its self-designated “Wild Hog Capital of Texas”. As one resident said, “someone’s got to take ownership.” At the festival in the fall, you can join a cook-off or compete to be crowned Hog Queen. The Foundation has literally changed everything for this town of 400. Sadly, Brooks Gremmels died this year from pancreatic cancer but the foundation and town remain committed to this project.
|Serene setting at Oak Creek Bed and Breakfast|
Edom and Ben Wheeler can be visited in a day from Paris but a nice outing is to spend the night at Oak Creek Bed and Breakfast just outside of Athens. Oak Creek Bed and Breakfast Randell and Marilyn Tarin are the Innkeepers and faces of a new kind of B&B. No longer are B&Bs just historical Victorian homes with flowered chintz coverings. Randell and Marilyn retired from the Metroplex and built their dream home in the East Texas woods along with two tastefully decorated cabins.
|One of Two cabins at Oak Creek Bed and Breakfast|
Aside from providing our hearty breakfasts, the Tarins were knowledgeable local guides, steering us towards and away from certain restaurants and wineries. They check it all out before making recommendations to their guests. Even though we didn’t need their Elopement-Honeymoon Package, for which Randell is licensed to perform, the quiet, private setting was enough. Remember this place when you just need to get away for a night.
|A couple of adult Magellanic Penguins|
An entire island of penguins? How could that not be cool? Children and adults alike are pulled toward these little guys – strutting their stuff on land, sleek swimmers in the water. On Magellan Island, on the Magellan Straits of South America, thousands of Magellanic penguins make their summer homes burrowed into the ground. We got to walk among them on a morning excursion from Punta Arenas, Chile.
|Melinka Ferry to Magellan Island|
There are two ways to travel to Magellan Island, assuming the trip is not cancelled due to high winds. Pay lots more and arrive on a zodiac boat before the crowds or take the slow Melinka ferry, landing on the island two hours later. We were in no hurry and enjoyed being on the Straits. Many young adults in the international crowd chose to catch up on their sleep but we were happy to listen to the lecture given in Spanish and English by a young woman who seemed to be in charge of us.
Magellanic penguins can live up to 25 years with as many as 300,000 penguins roosting on this small island. Male and female look exactly alike, weigh about 11 pounds and mate for life. Couples are only together six months of the year, parting after babies are born, trained to hunt for food, and sent on their way. Males and females will go separate directions for the winter, hooking back up the next year – same place, same time- with only the female’s ability to identify her mate’s call bringing them back together.
Upon arrival on the island, we had been strictly instructed NOT to stray from the marked path that led from the dock to an old lighthouse. Looking at the island from the boat, I thought I was gazing at Prairie Dog Town in Lubbock, Texas. With no vegetation for shade, thousand of penguins stood guard outside the hole that was their home. They return to the exact same burrow each year where two eggs are produced by the female and hatched by both parents.
By our visit in March, the babies had already been pushed out to sea to find their way up the east coast of Argentina, led by an adolescent. All adolescents had also been sent packing. No coddling or overprotective parents here. Remaining were adults, easy to identify by the broad black stripes on their chests. The wider the strip, the older the penguin. They had to bulk up – gain back weight lost in feeding babies all summer. No fishing boats were allowed near the island, but adults still would be out for 2 or 3 days to find food, swimming as far as the Atlantic and Pacific.
|Tourists on path through the Magellanic Penguins on Magellan Island|
|Molting Magellanic Penguin|
We only had an hour on the island and cameras were whirring. Photographers squatted, lay on the ground, leaned over the ropes marking the paths. Telephoto lens competed with point and shoot cameras. The penguins seemed oblivious of us all – similar to a Galapagos Island experience 40 years ago. Occasionally, a penguin would cross the path on its way to the water, doing that funny waddle until diving in and smoothly swimming away. It was surprisingly noisy with sea gulls complaining as they were attached by skuas – large brown birds that like sea gull eggs. Penguins chimed in with their donkey brays. And feathers were everywhere as all penguins molt each year.
|Skuas, Sea Gulls and Magellanic Penguins on Magellan Island|
What our lecture on penguins failed to tell us is the real risk to the colonies because of global warming. In February of this year, the New York Times ran an article by Harry Fountain detailing the increased heat and rain where penguins mate. Baby penguins feathers are not waterproof for six weeks and many will die from hypothermia if soaked by rain. I was shocked at the statistic that 2/3 of the hatchlings don’t survive to leave the nest. Add this to oil spills, depleted fish supplies from commercial fishing, and unregulated tourism, and our little friends are struggling to adapt fast enough. Fortunately, organizations such as the Wildlife Conservation Society are working to create protected areas with commercial fishing banned.
|Magellanic Penguins close to the water|
After an hour, our leader shooed us back down the path to the boat. It appeared our group had been respectful of the rules regarding the path and didn’t try to get closer than allowed. But I’m sure the penguins were happy to see us go. One probably gave the “all clear” sign as the boat pulled out. Today, that island would be empty as all have moved north for the winter. We can only hope they’ll be back – same place, same time next year.
|Rebuilt waterfront in Punta Arenas, Chile|
Punta Arenas lies on the Straights of Magellan, 880 miles due north of the icy shores of Antarctica and 2500 miles from the South Pole. It has been a harbor for boats and travelers through the Straits since it began as a penal colony in 1848. After the town burned in an 1877 mutiny, it was rebuilt sans prison and became a major trade center for the sheep farming industry and those who hoped to discover gold in the area. It also helped to have a coaling station for steamships on the main shipping route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans – at least until the Panama Canal was built in 1914. Colonists from Spain were expected but Punta Arenas also attracted a surprisingly large crowd from Croatia in search of gold and escaping a long drought in their home country.
I envisioned a small town clinging to the last rocks of the South American continent but instead found a small city of 170,000 inhabitants reinventing itself in a new world of energy and tourism. It is the center of Chile’s only oil reserves, now being drawn out by fracking. Half of the country’s lamb production still ships in and out of its free port but new kids on the block include dozens of cruise ships which call during the summer season of November through March.
Punta Arenas is filled with names associated with its adventuresome past. There’s a Charles Darwin Colegio, Magellan Street, Los Navegantes Hotel, Colon Avenue (after Christopher Columbus) and even a street named Yugoslavia after the homeland of many of the Croatians that immigrated here. Just two years ago, flash floods filled streets and damaged or destroyed 500 homes. The city has taken advantage of the disaster and rebuilt the water walk, using pavers to redesign streets and sidewalks and adding monuments, benches and play areas.
|Monument to area’s important sheep industry|
Many visitors fly into Punta Arenas and immediately launch into Patagonia to the north or ship off to Antarctica. Our unusual two night stay had two purposes – to see the Magellan penguins and meet some local Rotarians who had visited my brother in Davis, California during a Rotary exchange.
From our hotel, we easily walked to Ivan Baria’s home where we were joined by Alejandro Toro and his wife, Lily, and children. Ivan was restoring his Art Deco home that had been damaged in the floods. Trays of hors d’oeuvres awaited, many made from the very popular mayonnaise, with hot dogs served later. Offers of Pisco Sours were accepted and visiting began.
|Ivan Baria, Mack Walker, and Alejandro Toro|
Their children attend the local German school, where Lily teaches English. Sports are played against 17 other German schools in Chile and parents have to pay for students to fly to games. They learn 3 languages, Spanish, German, and English, and all will visit Germany for a month. Alejandro’s son had obviously just been to Europe as he sported a sweat shirt claiming to be part of a Czech Praha Drinking Team. Ivan had been an exchange student in Nebraska in 1976 where he first saw color TV. His daughter just returned from her exchange experience in Minnesota. Exploring the world was a way of life for his family.
When asked what was good about Punta Arenas, Ivan explained everything centers around the home resulting in strong relationships and a safe place for children. Alejandro and Ivan bonded during their trip to California and told wonderful stories that included my brother. What struck me was how normal it all felt – enjoying an evening with friends – except it was at the end of the world.
|Southernmost Golf Course in the World|
|Exact replica of Magellan’s Ship,Nao Victoria|
Ivan picked us up the next day for a “real” tour of the town. It included a short ride up to the southern most ski area, open one month a year, the southern most golf course with its wind tilted trees, historic cemetery and the two year old Nao Victoria Museum containing exact replicas of Magellan’s ship, Shackleford’s lifeboat and soon to be finished Darwin’s Beagle boat. On a more personal note, we toured Ivan’s Croatian neighborhood where he grew up on a hill surveying the Magellan Straits.
|Owner Silvia Harambour at Kiosko Roca|
And for an insiders’ treat, we arrived at Kiosko Roca at peak hour. This small diner overflowed with students grabbing an afternoon snack while adults waited for take-outs. It was named the best “picada” or “traditional hole in the wall” in Chile winning over 155 entrants. The original owner’s daughter, Silvia Harambour, smiled easily and insisted we try their banana milk and choripanes, a sandwich with chorizo paste. It was the perfect place to end the tour of Punta Arenas – a local spot filled with locals who hardly noticed the often heady wind outside. Thanks to the many modern conveniences, life is very doable at this end of the world.
|Author and husband on Southernmost ski lift in the world|